Kayak-backpacking and chasing bioluminescence in Tomales Bay

Yvonne Leow

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Last updated

August 3, 2024

Trip · 3-day backpacking trip

For · Friends and new backpackers

Distance · At least 2 miles of paddling

Vibe · Relaxing and chill

Permit · Yes, reserve a boat-in campsite in Tomales Bay

Drive · 1.5 hours from SF

Ideal dates · May to October

Pets · Welcome on kayaks, certain launch areas, and beaches

Tomales Bay is a 15-mile long inlet off of the Pacific Ocean and is the largest unspoiled coastal embayment, aka bay, in California. The west side of the bay belongs to Point Reyes National Seashore, and that's where you can camp overnight in places only accessible by boat. Bop around various beaches, explore small sandy coves and paddle through bioluminescent waters underneath a starry sky. Kayak-backpacking in Tomales Bay is a special experience worth doing at least once, if not more.

Official Point Reyes National Seashore Website

Blue Waters Kayaking Website

Directions to Chicken Ranch Beach Launch Site

Main image credit: N/A

Prep Itinerary Gear Food

Stuff to know

Reserve and rent a kayak from Blue Waters Kayaking. If you have a sedan, they'll show you how to strap the kayak onto your car. You can also pay a little extra to have them deliver the kayaks to your launch area. They also have this nifty kayaking map!
Beach fires are allowed, but that changes on a daily basis. You must pick up a campfire permit from Bear Valley Visitor Center (BVVC) the day of your trip to see if campfires are cool. BVVC is open daily from 9:30 AM to 5 PM.
Raccoons are the largest critter you'll have to worry about, but they're FEISTY! Bring a rodent-proof container to store your food overnight and when you're away from camp. Don't leave your snacks out because they're known for snatching them!
Depending on the time of year, Tomales Bay can get foggy in the morning. Bring a compass to help you navigate

Resources

Check the weather

Where to camp

Marshall Beach

Marshall and Tomales Beach have:

Vault toilets
Trash cans

Once you reserve a camping permit, finding a boat-in campsite in Tomales Bay is largely first-come, first serve. You can camp just about anywhere along the bay, unless you book a Marshall or Tomales Beach Group campsite designated to those specific beaches. Marshall and Tomales Beach are the only campsites with toilets and trash collection. Everywhere else you'll need to bring a wag bag to carry out your 💩 and trash. Leave No Trace, baby!

Bring at least a gallon per person of potable water per day because there aren't any drinking water sources available. Dog-friendly beach campsites are Indian, Kilkenny, Long Cove, Fruit Tree, Marshall, No Name, Tomales, and Elk Fence South Beach. Protip: Saturdays are the busiest time to be paddling around the Bay so score a mid-week camping reservation to duck the crowds.

Nightly Fee: $20

Reserve your campsite

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Itinerary

Day One

Leave SF by 8 AM and pick up your kayak at Blue Waters Kayaking

Single kayak rental for 2 nights is $180 and a double kayak rental is $250. Reserve your kayaks as early as possible! Rentals also come with a drybag.
Located at 11401 CA-1 in Point Reyes Station
Open from 9 AM to 4 PM daily
Last pit stop · Point Reyes Station - 11401 CA-1 in Point Reyes Station

Pick up a campfire permit from Bear Valley Visitor Center

Depending on wildfire conditions, campfires aren't always allowed, but swing by the visitor center to make sure. It opens at 9:30 AM.

Stock up on sandwiches, water and snacks at Inverness Park Market

Locals love their sammies, breakfast burritos, and fresh ingredients
Located at 12301 Sir Francis Drake Blvd in Inverness Park
Open daily from 8 AM to 8 PM

Park and launch your kayak from Chicken Ranch Beach

This is the only dog-friendly launch site in Tomales Bay. You can also launch from Miller Boat, Hearts Desire Beach and Lawson's Landing
The bay gets pretty windy in the afternoon so try to start paddling as early as possible. Kayak closer to shore to do some sightseeing along the way!
It's a 1 to 2 hour paddle to Marshall Beach so pace yourself

Paddle to Indian Beach and enjoy a quick lunch break

Or if you're feeling ambitious, enjoy lunch as you go!

Kayak to Marshall Beach and set up camp

If you fancy another beach along the way, then set up there, but if you prefer having a toilet and trash collection, then get to Marshall Beach sooner rather than later
Be mindful of low and high water tides so you don't wake up to a soaking tent

Cook up dinner and make a beach fire (if campfires are allowed)

You did it! Enjoy your first night in Tomales Bay!

Tomales Bay was named after Rancho Bolsa de Tomales, a Mexican land grant given by Governor Pío Pico to Juan Nepomuceno Padilla in 1846.

Day Two

Make brekkie and prep for a day paddle

Pack water, snacks, lunch to-go, sunscreen, bug spray, hat, and sunglasses
Download this map (the same one from above) and choose your own adventure in Tomales Bay
Check out Hog Island, which you can't land on due to nesting wildlife, but it's still a cool spot to paddle to
Pick a beachside lunch spot along the way and cool off with a swim!

Chill and unwind back at camp

Clean up and dry off your swimsuits and any damp clothes

Prep a sunset dinner

Soak up your last dinner in Tomales Bay!

If you're feeling ambitious, go night kayaking in search for bioluminescence

After the sun completely sets, flip on your headlamp's red light feature and go for a night paddle along the coast
Bioluminescence is best seen in dark conditions. Try paddling north, away from homes and artificial light. Some people haven't always been able to see bioluminescence, so at the very least enjoy the starry skies

Bioluminescence is a glowing, shimmery light produced by a chemical reaction within a living organism, which in this case is marine life.

Day Three

Pack up and leave camp around 9 AM

Cook up brekkie, pick up any random pieces of litter around camp, pack snacks, and water for the return paddle back to Chicken Ranch Beach
Layer on sunscreen, bugspray, and fill up your water bottles!